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Dishwasher Not Draining? 7 Causes Ranked by Likelihood (With Tests)

Symptoms:

Dishwasher Not Draining? 7 Causes Ranked by Likelihood (With Tests)

The most common cause is a clogged lower filter. Check that and the drain hose before assuming it’s the pump. New installs should check the disposal knockout plug first.

Close-up view of a dishwasher door and interior, illustrating a not-draining diagnosis
Risk
Low
Difficulty
Beginner
Estimated time
20 to 45 minutes

Before you start

Unplug the appliance, shut off the water supply if relevant, and stop immediately if you smell burning. If in doubt, call a qualified professional.

On this page

The most common cause of a dishwasher that won’t drain is a clogged lower filter, not a failed pump. Before assuming you need a replacement part, work through the checks below in order. They’re ranked from most to least likely based on how these cases typically resolve.

This page is part of our full dishwasher troubleshooting guide. If you work through every check below and water is still sitting in the tub, move on to our no-blockage follow-up guide, which focuses on the pump itself.

Quick Diagnosis Table

CauseLikelihoodDifficultyTypical Part Cost
Clogged lower filterVery likelyEasy (no tools)$0 — cleaning only
Kinked or clogged drain hoseLikelyEasy$10–20 if replaced
Disposal knockout plug not removedLikely on new installsEasy$0
Clogged air gapPossibleEasy$0–15
Failed check valvePossibleModerate$10–25
Worn-out drain pumpRareModerate$25–75
Faulty control boardRareProfessional recommended$80–200+

Repair or Replace?

Every cause on this page except a failed control board costs well under $75 in parts and an hour or less of your time, so repairing is the clear choice. A control board runs $80–$200 in parts plus labor if you hire it out; on a unit older than 8–10 years, that’s usually the point where a new dishwasher makes more sense than a third repair.

Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, LG, Bosch, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, and Maytag all place the filter and pump slightly differently, and reset procedures vary by model. See the brand-specific guide for your model: Whirlpool, GE, Bosch, Samsung, LG, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, or Maytag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is there a little water left at the bottom even when it's draining fine?

A shallow film of water around the drain area is normal on most models and keeps the pump seal from drying out. Water covering the whole tub bottom is not normal.

Can I run a cycle to try to clear a dishwasher that won't drain?

Not until you've cleared the clog — running a cycle on standing water just adds more water on top of the blockage and risks tripping the overflow float switch.

I just installed a new dishwasher and it won't drain at all — what should I check first?

Check whether the garbage disposal's knockout plug was removed before the drain hose was connected. It's the single most common new-install mistake and blocks drainage completely.

How can I check the drain pump without a multimeter?

You can't confirm a failed motor without one, but you can rule out a jam by checking whether the pump's impeller — visible once the filter is removed — spins freely by hand.

Is a clicking sound during the drain cycle normal?

A brief hum is normal. A clicking or grinding sound usually means something rigid, like glass or a bottle cap, is caught in the pump or chopper blade.

The information provided here is a diagnostic aid and does not replace the intervention of a qualified professional.

Tools needed

Probable causes

First checks

Step-by-step diagnosis

  1. Run the filter and hose checks above first — they solve most no-drain complaints without opening anything electrical.
  2. If you have an air gap (the small chrome cylinder on the sink or counter), unscrew the cap and clear out any debris inside.
  3. With power off, disconnect the drain hose at the disposal or sink-drain end and check for a clog with a flashlight; a wet/dry vacuum on the hose end pulls out most soft blockages.
  4. If water still won't drain, test the drain pump for continuity with a multimeter (unplugged): a healthy pump typically reads around 130 to 150 ohms across its terminals, though exact figures vary by model — infinite resistance means the motor has failed.
  5. If the pump tests fine but nothing happens when the cycle reaches the drain phase, the more likely cause is the control board or drain solenoid, which is a professional-level repair on most models.

Mistakes to avoid

When to stop

Parts potentially involved

When to call a professional

If the simple checks didn’t solve it, if the fix involves electrical wiring, gas, or the refrigerant circuit, or if you have any doubt at all: stop there and hand the appliance to a qualified repair professional.

Related guides

Error codes for this appliance

The information provided here is a diagnostic aid and does not replace the intervention of a qualified professional.

Sam Radford — DiagnosFix

Sam Radford — DiagnosFix

Technical reviewer

Last verified: 2026-07-17